A few days ago, my friend Yuhan took me on a surprise adventure around the center of Kunming. We walked along a popular street lined with trendy clothing shops and chocolatiers. Between the storefronts were these small nondescript doors, not quite hidden but easily unnoticed.
Behind these doors, we discovered rows of ancient communal housing complexes from centuries ago. Some seemed recently abandoned, while most others were still occupied by families. I was a bit shy about entering these homes, but many of the residents welcomed us in, and invited us to take a look around.
Yuhan’s family lived here when she was very young. The writing on the door and wall is a list of names and contact information of former residents that have moved away. A nice couple opened the door for us.
A young boy working hard on his homework. He was very polite, and excited to meet us.
An older gentleman smoking tobacco with his bamboo pipe. His wife really liked my photo of their cat.
The elderly couple’s cat. I think she was posing for me.
Grilled goat cheese with sweetened condensed milk and chocolate + rose petal sauce
A professional shoemaker and shoe repairman. I recently got my favorite boots fixed!
The infamous blackened stinky tofu with hotΒ chiliΒ paste.
P.S. Remember the weekly bike series I mentioned last time?
I have a new post up at CoLab Radio featuring field recordings of the city’s bike lanes by Taurin. We braved the rush hour traffic, and rode down one of the busiest roads in Kunming holding a field recorder and a camera! Ah, Kunming is starting to really feel like home.
36 Comments
Koey
October 27, 2011 at 9:50 amSuch hidden neighbourhood is so unique and lovely. Hope they won’t disappear so soon.
I have recently thought about having some journey to explore the natural and traditional side of China in the coming future. Traveling in Kunming seems attractive to me.
Sewon
October 27, 2011 at 1:58 pmEvery time I discover something really special like this, I worry that they’ll disappear. You’d have so much fun exploring Yunnan Province. Kunming is a good starting point. Let me know if you make it out here! π
Galine
October 27, 2011 at 10:59 amThese photos are magical. It’s truly a wonderful experience to stumble upon neighbourhoods like these. I’d always be in awe when it happened to my husband & I in Korea, so many hidden gems!
I also love how these homes serve as a practical place to live/work/eat/sleep a lot of the time, rather than focusing on all the nonsense we get caught up in sometimes when it comes to home decorating/etc, if that makes sense.
Also, that grilled cheese looks & sounds amazing! Yum!
Sewon
October 27, 2011 at 2:07 pmi was reading about small alleyways and old houses hidden in Samcheongdong in Seoul. I wish I had more time to explore Korea!
Oh, it’s such a challenge to live simply. I’m on a semi-shopping ban these days, because I’m headed back home soon and you know finicky international flights are with the baggage weight limit. But of course, I continue collecting paper goodies wherever I go. I can’t help myself!
π
Eileen
October 27, 2011 at 1:29 pmYou know, you inspire me to keep blogging. Even move to wordpress. Hopefully, one day I’ll learn how to take a picture properly. (turns red). Till then, I’ll just read your blog. π
“Yuhanβs family lived here when she was very young. The writing on the door and wall is a list of names and contact information of former residents that have moved away. A nice couple opened the door for us.”
I admit, that made me smile. I barely never smile, especially lately. It might be because I have rather big apple cheeks when I smile and I don’t like to show that. Hmmph.
Sewon
October 28, 2011 at 12:29 amThanks! π
ZEOLITE
October 27, 2011 at 1:37 pmThat’s so sweet that you got to go inside! That cat was definitely posing for his portrait. I still remember the smell of stinky tofu.. D:
Sewon
October 28, 2011 at 12:32 amI was super awkward about it in the beginning, but people were surprisingly friendly. I think we just seemed pretty harmless! π
Lindsey
October 27, 2011 at 2:40 pmIt seems like people in China are super friendly! That cat is really adorable too :3 Do you like goat cheese? I’ve never tried it before!
Sewon
October 28, 2011 at 12:38 amAh, back home I love putting goat cheese on egg sandwich. Yunnan Province has their own soft goat cheese, which is usually sliced and added in stir-fries (like firm tofu). But western restaurants put it on pizzas, pastas, and salads and they’re really good! It was my first time trying the thin grilled goat cheese, but it was quite good. π
Claudia
October 27, 2011 at 3:22 pmWow, I’m fascinated by your little adventure! It’s always so interesting to step into others lives and habits a bit.
Sewon
October 28, 2011 at 12:48 amIt was an interesting experience, for sure. π
catarina
October 27, 2011 at 4:51 pmall this food looks so tasty!
your photos amaze me as always π
Sewon
October 28, 2011 at 12:50 amThanks, Catarina. I’m impressed even the stinky tofu looks good to you~ π
Rina
October 27, 2011 at 8:08 pmI love old buildings like these. There is so much history hidden deep in the walls that we may never know. Truly haunting. If only buildings could talk…
How nice of your friend to surprise you with an adventure like this! So mysterious.
P.S. love your post about the bike lanes in Kunming! I think the sound clips were an especially nice touch. It feels like I’m in the city♥♥
xo
Sewon
October 28, 2011 at 2:30 pm“If only buildings could talk..” π I know, it was a really special walk and I was just really excited.
Ah, thank you! I’m really excited about continually expanding the project idea to include video work, as well.
Cookie Cutter
October 28, 2011 at 1:05 amI love how your photos pick up the beauty in the ordinary. And it’s so cool that the people are so welcoming!
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 1:26 amThank you. I was pleasantly surprised, as well.
Krys
October 28, 2011 at 7:12 amWow! I love how you can see the history simply written on the walls via the names/contact info of the former residences. Seems like it was a great day for a bit of exploring (:
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 1:33 amAh, I suppose it makes it a written history on the very walls of the houses! π
NM
October 28, 2011 at 8:49 amSuch an evocative area! It seems like old neighbourhoods like these are slowly being lost all over the world, it’s great to see so,e still being lived in.
(oh, the chou dofu, yum! I remember eating it in Taiwan, it’s great!!!)
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 1:50 amI wish there was a better way to preserve them, but that’s also quite tricky, too.
rhya
October 28, 2011 at 1:48 pmOhh…that condensed milk treat looks amazing! Rose sauce? so awesome. beautiful images!
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 1:51 amIt was good, and the sweetness went quite well with the cheese.
Anabella
October 28, 2011 at 5:32 pmwow amazing! that’s like being transported in time. i think its great people still live in those ancient homes. that’s like being transported in time. i would love to go into someone’s home and take photographs. how nice of them to be so welcoming.
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 1:52 amI think it really helped that the houses are communal, and several families (no relations) traditionally live in them. π
Kelly
October 29, 2011 at 2:58 amYour photo’s of the world you see are always so lovely and genuine have fun on your bicycle Sewon.
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 1:53 amThank you, Kelly. π
ai
October 29, 2011 at 5:31 amHow did you like that grilled goat cheese with sweetened condensed milk and chocolate? That sound so wild! And the cat with the cute bangs!
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 1:55 amI liked it! It’s sort of like brie with honey, except on a stick and totally different. π
Rachael
October 29, 2011 at 11:33 ami absolutely LOVE these photos, and i LOVE random adventures π the people you met seem so beautiful. sometimes i wish i lived in a country that had more of an ancient culture like that x
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 2:05 amThank you. π I bet there’s history to be discovered in your neighborhood, too.
dina vanessa mercado
October 29, 2011 at 2:09 pmlovely pictures!!! places seems full of history… so love it!!! enjoyed your blog.. following you now.. hope you could visit my blog too.. kissess!!!!
http://voguelyvan.blogspot.com
Jenny
October 31, 2011 at 1:41 pmThe cheese street snack sounds amazing! Did you try one??!! What a wonderful little find. These places have such amazing character.
I want to try stinky tofu some day. But not locally, abroad… abroad… I can’t imagine it being done well here in the States :X and I don’t want to tarnish what I’ve heard is both gross & delicious by a poorly made imported version.
Sewon
November 1, 2011 at 2:07 amYeah! I liked it. π
Ohh do they have stinky tofu in D.C.? I hear most Chinese people don’t even fathom making them at home, because it’s so pungent. I think most regions have their own take on the stinky tofu, too.
Musings by Di
November 13, 2011 at 9:04 pmwow…I really love all these photos. You captured ordinary moments but made them look all very special. love your lens and eye.
the pic of the cat and the shoe repair guy are especially cute and heart-warming.
xoxo Diana